Gurmat Chetna Yatra - Awakening In The Villages Of Punjab
Gurmat Chetna Yatra - Awakening in the Villages of Punjab
S.S. Sat Kirn Kaur Khalsa
New York City NY, U.S.A.
Day #1
On the 6th of August,the Bhai Sahiba, Sat Kirn Kaur Khalsa, and Sanatam Kaur Khalsa traveled to India to represent the western Khalsa in a fourteen day tour with the Jethadar, Singh Sahib Manjit Singh, of the Akal Takhat and Jethadar of Siri Dam Damma Sahib through the villages of southeastern Punjab.
On the first day we proceeded from Anandpur Sahib with an entourage of buses. Just before sunset we arrived at the most impressive site of Parvar Vechora, the Gurdwara that marks the spot where Guru Gobind Singh departed from his family to face the forces of the enemy troops at the border of the Punjab. It was the last time he was to see his family. Like a Mayan Temple, a pyramid type structure loomed high above us at the tip of the mountain. Climbing many, many steps we reached the top of the Gurdwara and gasped at the breath-taking view of the river and valley below. Proud and imposing, this Gurdwara stands in memory of the legacy of the fearlessness of our Tenth Master.
Day #2
Pouring monsoon rain, mud splattering from the heels of our chappals onto the backs of kurtas and chunis, wet from both rain and sweat, we were greeted every ten minutes with smiles, cheers of “Bole So Nihal,” bags of snacks, and cups of tea as we proceeded from town to town. We were very noticeable and referred to as the American Sikh Bibiya. We were honored almost every twenty yards or so. The bus stopped for short speeches and the draping of orange turban / saropas around our necks (100 a day it seems).
By afternoon the sun blazed brightly in the sky. In between vigorous brow mopping, to our delight, we noticed a preponderance of Nihang Singhs at the approaching Gurdwara. A Gatka display was in full swing. The traffic whizzed by only inches from the celebrations. We were filled with delight as we saw the massive blue figure and graying beard of Baba Nihal Singh greeting us with a broad grin and glowing aura of welcome.
We were told that this Gurdwara was placed at this busy roadway because of the large number of fatal accidents that had occurred. For this reason there is always continuous Akand Path and prayer.
The day ended at Gurdwara Morinda. We learned that here, Mata Gujri and the two chote Sahibzadas rested under the protection of their trusted servant who betrayed them to the Moguls.
Day #3
At the edge of the town of Ropar district we were blessed with a very special addition; a motor gaddi carrying the Siri Guru Granth Sahib. This glass encased motor car carried the Guru on a golden Palki with about eight Granthi’s and sevadars. This provided the opportunity for onlookers and passers by to bow, greet their Guru, give offerings, and receive prasad. It was a festive and novel sight for all from the most ragged villagers to the shop keepers to have the Guru come to them outside their shops and homes. Huge sacks of dry prasad, a blend of rice crispies, sugar crystals, cardamon and nuts, was given as prasad to all that came. Small children ran along side and reached high with little hands to receive the Guru’s Prasad. Every now and then a small child would be scooped up into the arms of a yartree to extend the child’s reach. The rifled security guards marched protectively along our sides. Wherever we rode, on highways or some narrow dirt road through small villages or city bazaar, all would
have the good fortune to have the darshan of their Guru.
Our procession now included a section of scooters and motor cycles, jeeps, cars, as well as open trucks loaded with people, buses, and even a bicycle section. We passed lakes with lounging mudges (water buffaloes) in the most picturesque and interesting of village scenes.
Day #4
If it was not raining, it was brutally hot. We started a system of carrying hankies and pieces of cloth to mop the dripping sweat from our faces, arms, and hands. The sunset found us in Fatehgar at last. This was the place where the chote Sahibzadas were bricked to death.
It is known that after the Sahibzadas were martyred a Hindu merchant asked to purchase the square plot on which the boys perished. He was told that if he could cover the spot with gold coins it would be his. This he did. Then, he was told that the coins must be as high as they were wide. He did this as well and so the spot was preserved and became the place we know today as Fatehgar Sahib. This is a huge country Gurdwara with a massive kirtan hall and subsidiary Gurdwaras and rest houses. The smell of flowers and plants permeate the air.
It was ten at night, but we were no longer distinguishing day or time, the procession seemed endless. As we sat in the large hall listening to the speech of Baba Nihal Singh Ji we spotted a very radiant woman in white bana and flowing chuni. We got a glimpse of our own selves. Shanti Kaur had arrived to join our small group enlarging our numbers to four Sikh sisters.
Days #5-14
After a night or two in the royal city of Patiala, home of the historical royal Sikh Raj, we continued our journey of awakening. We went deeper and deeper into the villages of southeastern Punjab, leaving the larger towns and cities behind as we burrowed deep into the rural countryside. Camels were visible pulling heavy burdens or lounging on the side of the roadways. Poverty caused by the rapidly changing economic conditions was apparent. Many cut hairs among both adults and children. We were a clear demonstration that the West found value in embracing the Rehit of Guru Gobind Singh Ji. This was our impact as we sat on stage after stage, in village after village, day after day, saropa after saropa, blessing after blessing.
Two men atop a motorcycle wound their way through the procession with a large canister spraying beautiful rose water on all of us. Marching uniformed bands, gatka players both tiny and large, a bicycle contingent, villagers crowded on open bed trucks and public carriers, the Jethadar riding standing in a jeep just ahead of our bus. We followed him and his entourage each time we arrived at a roadside reception or Gurdwara.
My last picture to share with you is in the village of Joga. Here there was a Gurdwara next to a large mudge lake with some very large lush shade trees sheltering villagers and yatrees lounging upon manjees (rope beds). Guru Teg Bahadur came and rested at this spot numerous times. The walls and buildings of this place are very high and old in the original high arched Mogul style of architecture. I could see Guru Teg Bahadur and his royal entourage of horses and gaddis resting at this spot just as we were resting here this day three hundred years later. There was a wonderful peace and relaxation for those under the thick umbrella of the huge Neem tree, and a lasting impression of awakenings.